Wednesday - 2 November 2022 -
Today we drove from Fez to the Roman ruins at Volubilis. Volubilis grew rapidly under Roman rule from the 1st
century onward and expanded to cover about 100 acres with a 1.6 mile circuit of walls. The city gained a
number of major public buildings in the 2nd century, including a basilica, temple and triumphal arch. Its
prosperity, which was derived principally from growing olives, prompted the construction of many fine
townhouses with large mosaic floors.
From the ticket area the ruins sit high on a hill overlooking the valley.
Much of Volubilis was excavated by the French during their rule over French Morocco between 1912 and 1955, but
the excavations at the site had begun decades earlier. As early as 1830, the French began archaeological digs as
part of their interest in North, West and South Africa and their conquest of Algeria.
The basilica was used for the administration of justice and the governance of the city. Completed during the
reign of Macrinus in the early 3rd century, it is one of the finest Roman basilicas in Africa.
Following Morocco's independence in 1955, excavations resumed under the French and Moroccan authorities and a
program of restoration and reconstruction began.
Many private buildings, including the mansions of the city's elite, were also uncovered. They are especially
notable for the beautiful mosaics discovered in a number of buildings and situated of floors of the houses where
they were laid.
The many houses and buildings uncovered.
Columns along the Decumanus Maximus - main north/south road.
The Arch of Caracalla is one of Volubilis' most distinctive sights, situated at the end of the city's main
street, the Decumanus Maximus. It was built in 217 by the city's governor, Marcus Aurelius Sebastenus, to honor
the emperor Caracalla and his mother, Julia Domna. Caracalla was a North African and extended Roman citizenship
to all the inhabitants of Rome's provinces. However, a usurper murdered both Caracalla and Julia before
the arch was finished.
The arch is constructed from local stone and was originally topped by a bronze chariot pulled by six horses.
Caracalla and Julia Domna were represented on medallion busts, though these have been defaced. The French
reconstructed the monument between 1930 and 1934.
The inscription on the top of the arch was reconstructed from the fragments which had been scattered on the
ground in front of the arch found by Englishman John Windus while sketching the site in 1722.
Detail of a column.
The House of the Labors of Hercules is named for the mosaic depicting the twelve tasks that the demigod had to
perform as penance for killing his wife and children. It is thought to have been created during the reign of the
emperor Commodus, who identified himself with Hercules. The house was of palatial size, with 41 rooms covering an
area of 22,000 square feet.
Arches on the Decumanus Maximus.
Column detail.
A view outside the ruins from the basilica.
The basilica interior is dominated by two rows of columns framing the apses at each end of the building where the
magistrates sat. The outer wall of the basilica, which is faced with columns, overlooks the forum where the
markets were held.
Cal moving through the ruins.
Columns and an arch of the basilica.
The outer wall arches of the basilica.
The Capitoline Temple stands behind the basilica within what would originally have been an arched courtyard. An
altar stands in the courtyard in front of 13 steps leading up to the Corinthian-columned temple, which had a
single room.
We were worried we would not see a cat in the ruins - one popped up for a quick picture.
From Volubilis we headed to the city of Meknes.
We walked the Medina shops in the town - beautiful
displays of olives.
Garlic on a blue tarp.
Dried roses used to fragrance water.
Mounds of spice mix for cooking - everything. The same base of 25-30 spices is used in every dish a few spice
modifications are made depending on the dish.
Peppers.
Prunes.
A sale being made.
Stacks of sweets - and some hungry bees.
Virginia Ann and Cal relaxing in the rooftop bar at the hotel in Fez.
At dinner in the hotel (Riad) the musician played a special song for Virginia Ann (he used Virginia).
It is challenging to hear in the recording, so you have to concentrate.