Wednesday, 8 February 2023 -
We arrived in Huế yesterday evening - had dinner and went to sleep. Today will be a long day stopping
by several sites in Hue.
First was the Mausoleum of King Tự Dức which was built from 1864-1867. The mausoleum
was finished well before the king's death in 1884, so he used the grounds as his home - he needed a big one
as he had 104 wives and concubines.
Jackfruit which is a species of tree in the fig, mulberry, and breadfruit family.
Beautiful gardens around the tombs with ponds and streams.
Cal at the entrance to the Mausoleum of King Tự Dức.
A small stone guard.
The tomb of King Tự Dức - although maybe not. The workers who buried him somewhere on the grounds
were beheaded, so they could not reveal the exact burial site.
Beautiful artwork covering the tomb.
Blue dragons on orange pillars.
Virginia Ann and Cal standing next to the Mausoleum of King Tự Dức.
Dragon on a staircase - we will see many staircase dragons in the days ahead.
Second entrance into the tomb complex.
Little bat (?) on a wall in the tomb.
Dragon on top of the official tomb.
Moss making interesting patterns on a wall.
A technique of joinery (broken pieces of pottery/porcelain used as art) will be seen in many buildings on our
trip - in Hue the king encouraged the practice.
Colorful fence using the royal colors for the king and queen.
Artwork made from small pieces of broken pottery. Ironic that it is a scene of pottery.
The king created a lake with an island in the center where he could go to relax.
Bonsai trees were very popular and planted in beautiful containers.
Beautiful porcelain Foo Dog.
Colorful yellow tiles cover the roof.
A dragon incense burner in a temple on the grounds.
The throne of the king while he lived in the complex.
Just around the corner were several incense stands selling many kinds of incense sticks. The color indicates
scent.
Inside the stand a woman was making incense sticks rolling the incense from a lump around a stick. She was very
quick making one in just seconds.
The woman making the incense sticks.
Virginia Ann sitting in the incense display.
Next we drove to the Mausoleum of King Khải Định built for the twelfth Emperor of the Nguyễn
dynasty of Vietnam. It features a blend of Vietnamese architecture with Western styles.
The tomb was
completed in 1931 after 11 years of construction. The tomb became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 as part of
the Complex of Huế Monuments.
A stone guard in a courtyard leading to the tomb.
Khải Định's tomb contrasts from other guyễn dynasty tombs, not only in its much smaller
size, but also with its more elaborate design, fusing Vietnamese and European styles including Baroque, Gothic
and Neoclassical elements.
Use of pottery and porcelain pieces used for creating a dragon.
Detail of the wall artwork.
The ceiling is decorated with nine intricate dragons, originally painted by royal painter Phan Văn Tánh
The rear room of the palace is home to a temple containing Khải Định's grave, an altar to him,
and a bronze statue of his likeness seated in traditional imperial clothing, cast in Marseilles.
Cal and Virginia Ann posing in the tomb along a wall decorated in glass and porcelain.
Dragons along the staircases to the tomb.
The seven-story pagoda Thiên Mụ Temple (Temple of the Celestial Lady) was our next stop.
Built in 1601 by governor Nguyễn Hoàng. Legend has it that Hoàng while touring the vicinity, was
told of the local legend in which an old lady (known as the "celestial lady") foretold that a lord would come and
erect a pagoda on the hill to pray for the country's prosperity. She then vanished after making her prophecy.
Upon hearing this, Hoàng ordered the construction of a temple at the site.
The view of the Perfume River from the Thiên Mụ Temple.
Decoration on the top of a building in the Temple complex.
Expansive lantern in a great hall.
Monk reading in the great hall.
During the summer of 1963, Thiên Mụ Temple, like many in South Vietnam, became a hotbed of
anti-government protest. South Vietnam's Buddhist majority had long been discontented with the anti-Buddhist rule
of President Ngo Dinh Diem since his rise to power in 1955.
The temple also houses the Austin motor
vehicle in which Thich Quang Duc was driven to his self-immolation in Saigon in 1963 against the Diem regime.
We stopped for lunch inside the walls of the Huế Citadel. Much of the old city was destroyed during the
fighting following the Tet offensive in 1968.
Rebuilt the streets were very pretty and peaceful.
Inside the citadel is the Imperial City - inside that is the Purple Forbidden City where the emperor and family
lived.
The damage to the wall of the Purple Forbidden City from 1968 is still present. Since being
declared a UNESCO site in 1993 there has been a focus on rebuilding the Purple Forbidden City.
The southwest gate, Cửa Chươdng Đức, to the Purple Forbidden City is beautiful.
Built in 1804 it has undergone a complete restoration.
A closer view of the top of Cửa Chươơng Đức.
The beautiful pillars and tree lined street leading away from Cửa Chươơng Đức.
The Meridian Gate, and bridge over the moat, is the main gate to the Imperial City. It was built in 1833 and
modeled after the Meridian Gate of the Forbidden City in Beijing, China.
The second floor was used to
review troops. The roof is made of yellow glazed ceramic roof tiles.
The grand Kỳ Đài is the Huế Flag Tower. It was built in 1807 at the same time as the
citadel was built.
The tower is made of three layers - each about 20 feet high. On top is a 60-foot tall flag pole. Very
easy to see from anywhere in the city - at night it is well lit.
A lamp hanging in a second floor room of the Meridian Gate.
Dragons everywhere - this one on the corner of a building in the Forbidden City.
Detail of a column and artwork in the Forbidden City.
Large golden dragon at the head of a royal courtyard.
The emperors reading room had several artifacts about.
Little elephant table in the emperors reading room.
Shadows of a tree on the citadel wall.
More pottery artwork - the broken saucers make good tail feathers.
Tree artwork made out of shells
Virginia Ann enjoying a sunset cruise on the Perfume River.
It was very nice - beer and appetizers
while we floated along.
Sunset on the Sunset Cruise.
Our turning point on the sunset cruise was the Thiên Mụ Temple so we had a view from the river of the
7-story building.
Our hotel from the cruise boat - the hotel was just off the river and built by the French in the 1930s for the
French Resident Superieure (head of French government in Huế).
A small boat in the colors of setting sun on the Perfume River.
After the cruise we walked 30 minutes to an area with several restaurants.
A communist government
building lit up at night.
Huế's Year of the Cat display on the river walk.
The river walk was very busy - it was a very
pleasant night out.
The very colorful Trường Tiền Bridge built by the French in 1897 by the Eiffel company.
The bridge is a 1,300 feet long gothic structure. As we walked along the lights changed to various
colors.
Detail of the Trường Tiền Bridge while bathed in red light.
We had a great meal along with several local beers - total cost was $13 US!!!
A cafe just off the
river walk along the Perfume River on our way back to the hotel.