Warned to hit San Gimignano early to avoid the huge number of the tourists the town attracts we left the hotel at 0800 and drove the 3 miles to the city. Parking was easy, and we entered through the main gate - Porta San Giovanni. There were some tourists but not many. Our first stop was the house of Saint Fina (1238).

 
italy2001
Next to the main plaza and into the Palazzo Del Popolo. This was the building (fort/palace) where the town was served by the medieval podestas. In the courtyard the various podestas have their coat of arms and frescoes by Sodoma completed in 1507. To the right is the fresco of "Saint Ivo administering justice". Here Saint Ivo administers to the poor (on the left) before the rich, even though the rich bring gifts.
italy2001

Inside the Palazzo is a museum and access to the tower. We toured the museum and climbed to the top of the "Great Tower" built in 1311; it is 54 meters high. This is a view from the ground. The town is famous for the medieval towers of which 14 still stand. In the 14th century San Gimignano had over 150 of these towers.

The museum houses several great works like the Announcing Angle and Annunciation of Mary which are two circular panels by Filippo Lippi.

italy2001
This is a shot from the top of the tower looking toward the gate where we entered town - the Porta San Giovanni and the main street - Via San Giovanni. This was the pilgrim route to Rome, following the old Lombard road. Once Florence subjugated the whole of Tuscany they diverted the road to the valley floor cutting off San Gimignano.
italy2001

This is the view of the Tuscan countryside from the tower. The red arrow indicates the Villa San Paolo - you will have to take my word.

After the climb we toured the Duomo, consecrated in 1148. Here the frescoes tell the old and new testament on the walls. On the back wall is a fresco of the Day of Judgment which is a pretty common subject on the back walls of many of the churches we visited.



 

We were told that it is to remind the faithful, as they leave church, what awaits if they do not follow the words of the priest.

The Museum of Religious Art is attached and had a large display of liturgical vestments and altar frontals as well as pieces of frescoes and various paintings. The most unusual painting was done on a surface like a tent so on one side the eye saw an image formed by the left edge and on the other side the image formed by the right side - so that the image changed as you walked by it.

italy2001

We paused for lunch (pizza) then bought some pottery at Tinacci Tito & M. Grazia . By now the streets were very crowded so we decided to return to Villa San Paolo and relax.

There we spent the afternoon basking in the Tuscan sun around the pool. Breakfast was served under the cabanas at the end of the pool. Our room is on the left past the Cypress tree.

italy2001
Truly a gem on the trip was our stay at the Villa San Paolo the view was gorgeous and staff very friendly. This is the view from the hotel back to the town of San Gimignano. The picture does not do the view justice as the town towers are clearly visible from the Hotel. I would suggest rooms 118 or 119 for great views and balconies - and be sure to take a swimming suit because the pool is very inviting.
italy2001

This is the entrance to the hotel with a fountain in front and in the back is a tennis court, some sort of bowling game and ping pong. They also have bikes available but you would have to be crazy to drive a bike on an Italian road.

Hotel Villa San Paolo
Phone: 039 057 795 5100
E-mail: sanpaolo@iol.it
Web: tuscany.net/sanpaolo/

As for culinary adventures we only had one night in San Gimignano so we only had one experience - unfortunately, it was Cal's worst experience. The food was great but the restaurant was in a 14th century cellar with limited ventilation. Halfway into the dinner, several others in the same room began chain-smoking. I would not recommend Dorando' unless you are suffering from nicotine deprivation.

Here is a pretty good site for San Gimignano: www.sangimignano.com/sghomei.htm



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