A very short day in Rome because we were catching the train at noon. Near the Pantheon was a museum we thought would be interesting and so only had one stop on the itinerary. That stop was the Plazzo Doria Pamphilj dating from 1435 which provided one of the best art collections we saw on the trip. The Pamphilj family has owned the property since the 17th century. They collected art from the 15th to 18th century including a famous portrait of Pope Innocent X Pamphilj by Velazquez. There are also works by Caravaggio and others. The house (mansion) is a beautiful building with two large courtyards.

A small cafe next to the hotel provided sandwiches to go for the train ride to Florence. Be sure to book the train prior to getting to the terminal - best yet book in the US. We went to the American Express office located just around the corner from the hotel. Another tip - only in First Class are seats assigned. It was a very smooth ride lasting only an hour and a half.

We took the train to Florence which was an enjoyable experience - the train was fast and clean. Be sure to book in advance. In Florence we had the only trouble on the trip. We had booked the entire trip over the Internet and while the experience had been rewarding no actual voice commo had taken place. As we stepped up to the counter and announced that the Holman's were ready to check in - all we got were blank looks. They had canceled our reservation based on a phone call - the only thing we could figure out is that the clerk mistook another name for ours - they had one room for two nights (we needed three) and ended up allowing us to stay for three nights. We stayed at the Hotel Helvetia & Bristol which is located very close to the center of Florence and provided a good vantage point for our adventures

Hotel Helvetia & Bristol
Phone: 039 055 28 78 14
E-mail: reservations_hbf@charminghotels.it
Web: http://www.charminghotels.it/helvetia

Our dining experience included a great meal prepared by a female chef in Alle Murate - the menu was very gourmet and the food and service one of the best we had in Italy. The second night we ate at Bibo a little (or so it seems from the outside) cafe which served a Florentine T-bone which was excellent. The last night we went to a 'local' spot called the Cingtllale Bianco (White Boar) where boar meat is the specialty - Cal had pasta with boar sauce and boar filets - they were excellent. The Maître d', Massimo, helped in the menu translation and recommended the best Chianti of the trip.

This is a pretty good site for Florence: http://english.firenze.net/

italy2001
The first stop in Florence was the Baptistry that was built in the 4th century - making it one of Florence's oldest (if not the oldest) buildings. The ceiling is a beautiful mosaic of old and new testament scenes. The right is a picture of the ceiling with Christ in the center on the right lower band is the Last Judgment.
italy2001
Another of the beautiful example of artwork are the doors to the Baptistry. They were commissioned in 1401 and created by Ghiberti. This is the story of Adam and Eve from Adam being created on the left being expelled from the Garden on the right. The panels have been removed from the actual doors for safekeeping in the Duomo Museum right next to the Duomo. The museum has a good display showing how the dome was constructed along with artwork by Michelangelo, Donatello, and Lamberti among others.
italy2001
After the Baptistry we toured the Duomo which was more impressive from the outside than the inside. The inside is rather plain except for the floor which is paved in a maze of marble. The skyline is dominated by the dome and attached Campanile which raises 276 feet (20 feet shorter than the dome). The Duomo is build over a the remains of the 4th century church of Santa Reparata, demolished in 1296 to make way for the cathedral. A visit to the ubiquitous gift shop is down under the church - for a few thousand lira you can tour the remains of Santa Reparata.
italy2001
This is a picture of the dome inside the Duomo. The fresco design copies the design of the mosaic in the Baptistry. The dome is remarkable because Brunelleschi built it without scaffolding. You can climb to the top (we did not) using the 463 steps and see the inner shell which provides a platform for the outer shell.
italy2001

Not content to rest we pushed on to the Palazzo Vecchio . This is a castle residence for the Duke Cosmo I and quite a structure. Dominating the Piazza della Signoria this building is hard to imagine as a residence. This picture is an example of the artwork on every ceiling. They have installed a very good interactive web program on PCs throughout the museum. The program includes the history of Florence and of the palace.

After a long day we headed back to the hotel then off to a gourmet Italian dinner.



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