Friday, December 21, 2018 -

After breakfast and met our guide, Bishyu and Sandosh.

We learned about the tsunami in 2004 that hit on December 26th, which started in Thailand and impacted Pondicherry.

The guides we meet in each of the locations on our journey make these trips interesting and most educational. Our guide today shares the history of this area dating back to 1700 when the French observed how much money the British were earning. The French agreed the British would never surrender the bigger cities they occupied in India. To succeed, the French knew they must gain access from the sea to gain ground in northern India where the real money was made. So, the French focused on five smaller cities to the South and declared Pondicherry as the capital. The Romans had done business in Pondicherry since the 1st Century. Strategically, Pondicherry was equidistant to other rich resource cities.

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The pier at sunrise.
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The French and British fought for control of Pondicherry for over 100 years. Over time, the French exclusively dominated at least one-third of the city. Indians living in Pondicherry, many from the Sudra caste (peasants and servants) or the Untouchable class (street sweepers or latrine cleaners) began to work for French families in various roles from housekeeping, cooking, gardening, repairs and construction. Over time these employed Indians now earning regular wages began to feel part of a privileged class and considered themselves somewhat elite. These Indians picked up the French language and learned French ways and customs.

In 1763, the British attacked again but could not take Pondicherry, but they razed it so the French began to rebuild and installed a canal, "Le Grande Canal."

In 1782, the British attacked the French in Pondicherry again. In 1850, the French left Mahi in Kerala sailing down around the back of Pondicherry. Instead of stopping here, they sailed on to Chenai, walked into Fort St. George and took control of the Fort. The British realized they must compromise so they gave up Pondicherry to the French.
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In 1947, the British left India. Goa was Portuguese and Pondicherry French. On November 1, 1954, the French returned control of Pondicherry to India. However, it was feared that if the French completely left Pondicherry, fighting between the Muslims and Hindus might escalate so the French stayed to ensure peace.

The Governor's House was a Dutch home and the French governor stayed here until the 1990's. It was subsequently sold to a businessman and then donated to the Ashram and now is a home for the elderly. In its garden, we saw a Jackfruit tree and a Moringa tree, "Drumstick" tree.
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In 1962, the French gave the Indians of Pondicherry the opportunity to acquire a French passport. As many as 30,000 Indians took French passports, many converted to Catholicism, became educated and eventually relocated to France. When in France, many Indians desperate for work, joined the French Army. About half of these Indians returned to India upon reaching their retirement age and earning full pensions. They were no longer considered untouchables and were referred to as, "Soldats" French for soldiers. These individuals considered themselves as much French as Indian.

The Soldats would gather each afternoon in the courtyard for a game of petanque. The sign over this door recognizes these individuals and is now a private club for its members and citizens of Pondicherry.
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Typical doorway to a home
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A nice entrance protected by an idol over the door.
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The famous ashram in Pondicherry was founded by Sri Aurobindu who died in 1950. Even Ashrams today discriminate against the Untouchables. This ashram does not discriminate. It began in 1910. In 1914, a Jewish French woman requested she be a spirituality student of Sri Aurobindu. In 1926, she became the Guru until her death in 1973. Mirra Alfassah was referred to as "Mother" and believed deeply in meditation and meditated 3x a day.

Throughout this journey, whether entering a temple, hearing prayers from a mosque or seeing the impact of Christianity from services in a church, I am reminded of the importance of faith and a belief in a higher being regardless of the religion.

Cal took pictures of several pilgrims visiting the ashram from all over India
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Raj Nivas - or the official residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Puducherry. It was built on the former site of the Hotel de la Compaigne - which was the seat of the French government.
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Bharathi Park - nice wide walkways much like a european green space. Surrounding the park are several government buildings.
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Aayi Mandapam (Park Monument) is a white monument built during the time of Napoleon III, Emperor of France. It is in the center of Bharathi park. The monument commemorates the provision of water to the French city during his reign. It was named after a lady courtesan called Ayi. She destroyed her own house to erect a water reservoir to supply water for the city.
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An old lighthouse which was constructed in the nineteenth century by the French rulers - beaming out the first warning light in 1834. Now it is closed as the Indian government built a new lighthouse several miles away.
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Statue of Joan of Arc standing at the center of the Joan of Arc Park. The park was closed while we were there - we were a little confused but it seems the church across the street owns the park. The statue was inaugurated in 1920.
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Our Lady of Angels Church. The original structure was built by Napolean III in 1855. It is believed to be based on Notre Dame de Paris in Paris and the Basilica at Lourdes.

The church offers mass in three languages, French, Tamil and English.
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Pretty light through the dome's stained-glass
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The church is built in Greco-Roman architecture with the main chapel with two pillars on either side. The two pillars were originally used to house the clocks, which are now not functional.
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Interesting old door
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The French left over 40 years ago - and still there ae signs in French
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Older buildings with flowers - the entire area was very pretty
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Niche for a candle or idol - this is in the Indian area (outside the French area) and the homes are much more traditional Indian.
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We then stopped for the best coffee in Pondicherry at a street side coffee shop, Kofi. We were served a coffee with Marsala (milk and spices) and a Samosa hors d'oeuvre of a pastry stuffed with onion and chili peppers. The Kofi shop serves South Indian filtered coffee.

Across the street from the coffee vendor was a home being torn down. The niche is the only part of the front left.
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In keeping with the French influence the police here wear the French cap - or kepi.
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Elaborate door and threshold
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When we stopped in La Basilique de Sacre Coeur this afternoon, the church was filled with people and a service was in progress.

In fact, here there are three services every day. I am reminded how deeply spiritual the people who are gathered here are. We learn that this Catholic Church is predominantly for the lower-class caste systems. Even though the caste system is illegal and no longer practiced, it is still alive. Many citizens, once considered lower class, now earn regular wages.

What I witnessed were joyous, proud people. People who live simply and want little. People who thank God for life with all its ups and downs and who find happiness in the smallest of things. People who open their doors and hearts to welcome travelers like us.
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Inside the church was very colorful
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We then went to the Ganesh Temple, also called "The White Man's Ganesh" because it is the only temple where non-believers are allowed into the sanctum.

Legend has it that a European Governor who was sick was finally so sick he was convinced to pray to Ganesha - and he recovered. He then donated land and money to the temple so it could grow. He continued to visit and say thanks to the happy elephant.
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Street vendor selling something like peanuts - but it did not look like peanuts.

Once again we had dinner with Tony and Mary - this time at a swanky restaurant a few blocks away. Wonderful company and food - service was a bit lacking. Notable - this was the first time we had dinner outside a hotel, typically we did not venture out at night to restaurants - but in Pondicherry the atmosphere was so European.


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