Thursday, December 20, 2018 -

We begin our day early with a drive through several villages as we head east to Pondicherry.

We pass through several villages along the southern tip of India. Here Muslims, Hindus and Christians seem to live a more integrated life. Living and worshiping in their own wayside by side.

We arrive in the village of Kumbakonam which boasts the village has 1,000 large temples and as many as 2,000 smaller temples. There is another religious festival going on here, The Festival Kumbamela. During the Holy Season of December and January, there is a festival just about every day.

The entrance tower of the Sarangapani temple was at the end of a street - Cal got out and with Sandosh walked around the tower.

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The rajagopuram (the main gateway) has eleven stories and has a height of 173 feet - the temple complex was started in the 9th century.
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Sarangapani Temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu - here with the cobras over his head.
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Detail on the temple tower - lots of interesting statues
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The statues cover every angle of the tower
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Really like this big blue guy flashing some sign
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At the base of the tower were a row of statues carved in rock
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A woman asked us to follow her down an alley, and we came upon the entrance to a Shiva Temple called Kudandhai Karonam.
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Sarangapani Temple from an angle looking across the interior temple area. Now one of the smaller towers (gopuram) is visible and behind it the large main tower (rajagopuram).
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The Maha Maham Tank (reservoir) is surrounded by temples. On the far right is the Sri Edabeswarar Temple. The tank is surrounded by sixteen small Mandapams (shrines).
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One of the Maha Maham Tank temples - this one is Sri Umabakeshwarar Temple
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Nageswaraswamy Temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Aditya Chola constructed this temple during the 9th century. It is a good example of Chola architecture, building technology and astronomy. The orientation is structured in such a way that it allows sunlight inside the temple, on the shrine during the Tamil month of Chithirai (April/May)
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Figure detail on the gate to the Nageswaraswamy Temple
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Many, many arms
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This is a Shiva temple so this is probably a bull, and it is playing the two-headed drum - teh damru. In Hinduism, the damru is known as the instrument of the deity Shiva, and is said to be created by Shiva to produce spiritual sounds by which the whole universe has been created and regulated.
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The top of the gate
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The Adi Kumbeswarar Temple has an elephant to give out blessings - you have to make a donation for a blessing.

We waited and waited for someone to get a blessing but alas no takers - including Virginia Ann
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This statue was over a doorway not in the Adi Kumbeswarar Temple but it was in the same courtyard.
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By this time, I'm feeling a bit "templed out" and fear I will be having subsequent nightmares having seen so many grotesque images. But I admit they are most picturesque with their brilliant colors and ornate carvings.
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Adi Kumbeswarar Temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to the deity Shiva The present structure was built during the Chola dynasty in the 9th century but has been in this location since the 7th century.
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Legend has it that the city was named after this temple.

Nandi (bull) resting on the wall - since a Shiva temple and the bull is his animal.
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Next stop was the Airavatesvara Temple - not far from the other temples but technically in town of Darasuram, very near Kumbakonam. The temple is dedicated to Shiva.

This temple, built by Rajaraja Chola II in the 12th century CE is a UNESCO World Heritage Site - the second of the three temples we will see called the Great Living Chola Temples. There are three, we saw one yesterday - Brihadeeswara Temple at Thanjavur and today we will see the other two.
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As I said, I am feeling a bit "templed out" so when we arrive at the Rajaraja Chola II, I take in the beautiful tree-lined courtyard surrounding the temple with its green lawn that sprawls the acre-plus archaeological site. Cal removes his shoes, again, to enter the temple and Sandosh and I wander down a path that leads to a street where silk weavers reside.

We can see rows and rows of colorful silk threads hanging over a rail in front of a home as they wave about from a breeze to dry. We are invited into the home where we see a weaver at work and stacks and stacks of saris and scarves she has finished, neatly folded and piled high to the ceiling.
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The Airavatesvarar temple is one among a cluster of eighteen medieval era large Hindu temples in the Kumbakonam area.
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Nandi (bull) on the wall - as with previous Shiva temples the wall is lined with bulls.
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As a UNESCO site there is no painting allowed so all the statues are natural stone.
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Statue with a scarf of marigolds
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Vishnu with cobras rising over his head.
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The temple sanctum is a 39-foot square with have thick walls on which the building superstructure rises to a height of 79 feet.
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A statue on top of the surrounding wall
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The Airavatesvara temple was much larger than it is now. It had seven streets and seven courts, according to the inscriptions. All are gone, except the one court with the main temple that survives.

There are ruins of gopuram (Tower/gate) and some structures at some distance from the current visitor area confirming that the site was badly damaged at some point like the other major Chola era temples.
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The main temple structure. We could visit the patio and entrance way but were not allowed as the temple is still being used and the sanctum is off limits.
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The main temple
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We were so busy looking around we almost missed this little bird posing on a column
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A lion fighting with an elephant on a staircase
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Statue in a niche on the outside of the temple
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A bull with Shiva - maybe - it is a tiny carving
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Well dressed idol
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Looks like a war dog
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Sandosh would stop the car when he saw something this time a King Fisher on a wire near the road.

Several times Cal was not fast enough to get the picture before the bird would fly away.
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Palm trees at the end of a rice field - we drove through many acres of rice
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Crossing the Kollidam River was a one-lane bridge. We stopped on the far side as there was a lot of activity.

Several fishermen were fishing from the shore and even a few in the river.
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Nearby women were cleaning fish by the river's edge several birds were circling and would dive to pick up fish pieces.
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We stopped at one last temple in Gangaikonda Cholapuram before heading to Pundicherry in Ariyalwar Tamil Nadu.

The Brihadisvara Temple is the last of the three Great Living Chola Temples we will visit.

UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 2004, along with the Brihadeeswarar Temple at Thanjavur and Airavatesvara temple at Darasuram. These are referred to collectively as the Great Living Chola Temples
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The main deity of the temple is Lord Shiva. The construction of the temple ended in 1035 AD. The temple covers an area of 6 acres of land.

After conquering north-eastern India, Rajendra Chola I built the temple to celebrate. He demanded that the conquered bring water from the Ganga River to fill the well. The well was called Cholagangam and he then gave himself the name "the one who conquered the River Ganga" or Gangaikondan.
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Lord Shiva and his wife Parvati in brass at the base of the Dwajasthambam (flag pole)
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A small bull as this is a Siva temple.
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Temple for Chandikesvara - one of the 63 Nayanars. Nayanars were saints of the Saiva cult.
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This temple is similar to the Brihadisvara temple (in Tanjore) which was constructed by his father, Raja Raja Chola I. But it is smaller and refined than the Tanjore counterpart. Both the temples boast a large courtyard, small gopuram (gate).
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Detail of figures on the temple
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Temple for the Goddess Brhannayaki
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The vimana or the temple tower has a height of 182 feet.
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A couple of green birds is visiting the temple - the statue nearby is Ardhanarishvara
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Dancing Shiva
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Shiva's transport - Nandi - the bull is 15 feet in length, 11 feet in height and 8 feet wide.
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The top of the wind chime

We loaded back into the car for the remainder of the trip to Pondicherry.
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A man loaded down walking along the road.
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A temple across a rice field - like an oasis in a sea of green
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By late afternoon, we arrive at our destination, Pondicherry, for the next few days. Our hotel is just a few blocks from the coast so we head out to walk the beautiful waterfront and see some of the nearby sites. I can already tell, I will love this city with its quaint French-inspired architecture, old cobbled streets and the relaxed pace of a seaside village.
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We see a beautiful Catholic Church with its pink facade, La Cathedral Notre Dame with Joan of Arc statue.
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We walked over to a Ganesha temple as we were told there would be an elephant - we did not see the elephant, but the temple was beautiful.
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A Ganesha receiving line
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Lions on the base of the temple pillars
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Flowers for sale at the temple
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Virginia Ann outside our hotel on returning from our walk.



After our stroll, we dress for dinner and meet Tony and Mary Herbert from London for a beer and dinner on the rooftop of our hotel. We had met Tony and Mary earlier in the coffee shop - very nice (lovely) couple who spend the Christmas holidays in India each year.


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