The first day on the trip was in Delhi and not part of the photography tour. The formal tour
began on a Monday,
so on the weekend I went around Delhi with a great guide, Vikram Kalra.
His knowledge of the city
(and its very long
history) made the third visit a new experience by going to out-of-the-way locations.
Our first stop is a very old stepwell, Rajon ki Baoli. It has several layers and rooms for
resting on each side.
The bedrock is visible on one side of the stepwell.
It was named for the masons who built it in the 16th century.
There is a tiny Mughal-era Mosque on top of the stepwell.
Old ruins from the old city are slowly being captured by the vegetation.
A niche in the mosque
A dog rests outside the mosque
Nearby is a small tomb from the same period as the stepwell. It does not have a name and the
graves are unknown.
We then traveled outside Qutar Mitier Park to an old neighborhood to take photos of the street
life.
We began at the Tomb of Adham Khan (Bhool Bhulaiya), which has a great view of the Qutub Minar.
The Tomb of Adham Khan was built when Adham Khan murdered the Mughal emperor Akbar's favourite
general
Ataga Khan in May
1562, Akbar immediately ordered his execution by being thrown from the ramparts of the Agra
Fort.
The ceiling of the Tomb of Adham Khan
In the 1830s, a British officer named Blake of the Bengal Civil Service, converted this tomb into his
residential apartment and removed the graves to make way for his dining hall. It has since been
restored.
From the Tomb of Adham Khan we crossed the street into the neighborhood. We quickly came upon a
stepwell.
It is not very deep and the water is easily accessible - but a bit dirty.
The Gandhak Ki Baoli was built between 1210 and 1235. The underground streams feeding the well
have
long dried up.
Headed down the narrow streets to the Dargah Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. A dargah is a shrine
built over
a revered religious figure - this case Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki.
We purchased flower petals as an offering at the grave of Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki
Once at the grave we scattered the flower petals and lit incense
The graveside is carpeted in flower petals. The devoted can go under the cover to pray
at the small opening.
The chandelier and the ceiling over the shrine
Devotees to Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki praying at the grave.
Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki is the person to whom the nearby Qutub Minar is dedicated.
Around the edge of the grave ceiling were little fans and beautiful inlay work.
A candle burning in a shrine nearby
Nearby grave with just a few flower petals
Very heavy ornate silver door leading to the grave site.
Women are not allowed graveside and say their prayers through a marble screen
One of the gates to the Dargah Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki is through a courtyard which has a
pretty tree.
Next to the Dargah Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki is the Zafar Mahal palace, which is not well
protected.
We slipped through the opening into the palace.
I did discover a security guard when wandering about. The back of the palace is gone and is next
to a neighborhood - homes built right up to the palace.
The top of the Dargah Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki next door.
The main room or reception hall of the palace. You can still see traces of paint left on a few
pillars.
Zafar Mahal is the ruined summer palace of the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar II.
Three men playing cards in one of the palace rooms.
Detail of the Zafar Mahal entrance door - which is big enough to allow elephants to walk
through.
We continued walking through the Mehrauli neighborhood. Near a small shrine there were two
people
stringing marigolds together for garlands.
Ganesha in a small shrine with a Sufi waiting to bless people.
Local vegetable market was hoping - it was small but full of vegetables.
The Mehrauli Sabzi Mandi is a subset of the larger Mehrauli market, and a haven for
vegetable suppliers and consumers alike.
Pile of garlic
The whole family out shopping in the Mehrauli Sabzi Mandi
So many carrots they are just spilled out in a big pile. They must be priced great as there was
a lot
of activity at the carrot corner.
A pile of prickly cucumbers.
The bell in the small shrine looking out over the street
A clothing shop
Being adorned with henna
This plaque recognizes the locals who went off to fight in World War I
A street vendor making Jalebi, a fried sweet treat. A small hole is made in a handkerchief
which the dough is forced to create a ring - like a donut.
We then drove to Tughlaqabad Fort.
The Tughlaqabad Fort was built by the founder of the Tughlaq Dynasty, Ghiyas-ud-din-Tughlaq in
1321.
Established as the fifth historic city, the fort was later abandoned in 1327.
The city is supposed to have had as many as 52 gates of which only 13 remain today.
The sloping rubble-filled city walls, a feature of monuments of the Tughluq dynasty, are
between 35 and 70 feet high, topped by battlement parapets and strengthened by circular
bastions of up to two stories high.
The battlements on the wall topped by grass
A short underground passage is all that remains of probably a much longer passage to the
mosque
The fortress had a stepwell with a single set of stairs down to the water
The bedrock at the bottom of the setpwell and plants grow out of the well.
The walls of the fortress tower over the forest below.
From the fortress you can see the Mausoleum of Ghiyas ud-Din Tughluq across the road built with
the
same architecture and
fortress like walls.
A curse dictated that monkeys were to run the fortress and are in evidence everywhere.
A mother and baby are traveling across the lawn near the mosque.
The Mausoleum of Ghiyas ud-Din Tughluq is made up of a single-domed square tomb with sloping walls
crowned by parapets. In contrast to the walls of the fortification made of granite,
the sides of the mausoleum are faced by smooth, red sandstone and inlaid with inscribed panels and arch
borders from marble. The edifice is topped by a dome resting on an octagonal drum
that is covered with white slabs of marble and slate.
The niche in the western wall of the Mausoleum of Ghiyas ud-Din Tughluq
After the Mausoleum of Ghiyas ud-Din Tughluq we went to one of Vikram's favorite spots for
Masala Chai.
There was
a tree there with some pretty strange things nailed to it for decoration.
After chai we walked across the street to a small fish market.
Something I had not seen before was how each stand had a guy using a knife which was vertical
and
fixed to the counter. The men use the knife cutting from a seated position.