Photographing Penguins in Antarctica

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Sunday, 28 December 2025 - A boat excursion through the Beagle Channel to Isla Martillo, passing Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse and nearby colonies of Antarctic shags and South American sea lions on the way. Walked among Gentoo and Magellanic penguin colonies, observing adult birds, chicks, and nesting behavior. Visited the Harberton Ranch, including the Acatushún Museum of Southern Birds and Mammals, before returning to Ushuaia.

I arrived a day early in Ushuaia and had purchased a ticket on a boat trip to walk with penguins on Isla Martillo. The boat would travel up the Beagle Channel. Since I was early, I was looking forward to trying out my cold weather clothing and cameras on the penguins. We would not be allowed to sit/kneel/squat or put anything on the ground in Antarctica or South Georgia, so I also would try new techniques for getting low.

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A small island full of Shags in front of Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse (the Scouts Lighthouse) standing 36 feet. The lighthouse is still in operation, is remote-controlled and automated, guarding the sea entrance to Ushuaia. Electricity is supplied by solar panels.

The lighthouse was put into service on December 23, 1920.
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This is the Antarctic shag (aka imperial cormorant, king cormorant, imperial shag, blue-eyed shag, or Antarctic cormorant. Yes, many names). It is the only species of cormorant found in the Antarctic region. At 30 inches tall and a wingspan of almost 50 inches, it is hard to miss.

We would see many of these birds throughout the trip.
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Lots of Antarctic shags
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On the island supporting Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse were many South American Sea Lions. Here a large male and his harem.
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A male Sea Lion discussing the days activities with the girls.
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Sea Lion and a young Sea Lion relaxing on the rocks.
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I love this pose - we will see many seals strike this pose with their heads upturned.
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Not sure how you can sleep on a rock.
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A much larger male and a couple of females. The South American sea lion is one of the largest of the eared seals, weighing up to 800 pounds. The females are less than half that size.
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We then moved on to Isla Martillo where we were able to walk around and observe the penguins.

This is a Gentoo penguin we would see many of these in the coming days.
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This is the Magellanic penguin, which is the dominant species on the island. The colony is rather new starting to live on the island around 1976 in 1992 there were 500 breeding pairs and now over 3,000 pairs.
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A juvenile Magellanic penguin crying out on the beach.
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Magellanic penguin resting on the beach.
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It was amazing - the little penguins were walking all around me.
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Standing tall in the face of the giant photographer.
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Magellanic penguins mate with the same partner year after year. The male reclaims his burrow from the previous year and waits to reconnect with his female partner. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone.
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The fluffy penguins are the baby Magellanic penguins.
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The well-fed babies are the same size as their parents.
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The chicks are cared for by both parents for 29 days and are fed every two to three days.
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A parent preens a baby chick.
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A Magellanic penguin gathering grass for their burrow.
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It was fun to turn in any direction and see a penguin. Here a Magellanic penguin walks by.
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We then walked to a small Gentoo penguin only a couple of hundred yards away. The Gentoo has a relatively long tail, the most prominent tail of all penguin species.
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Penguins typically have one to two chicks. Often the young group together for protection from predators. Here is a group of Gentoo chicks in a little pile.
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Cal taking penguin pictures.
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A Gentoo adult and two chicks.
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Two Gentoo penguins squawk at each other.
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A group of Gentoo chicks relaxing.
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The little Gentoo birds are so cute waddling around - I could have spent hours just watching them interact in the colony.
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Gentoo running (well, waddling fast) along the beach.
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Young Magellanic penguin.
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An adult Magellanic penguin and a young one sharing a little beak action. The young tap their parent's bills to get attention for food.
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Once off the island full of penguins we walked around the Harberton Ranch who own Isla Martillo. The ranch was established in 1886 and is occupied by the fourth generation of Thomas Bridges, the founder.

This is the small shed where the various bones are stored, called "the bone house" where skeletal remains are cleaned and prepared for classification and display. There is a collection of over 2,800 marine mammal specimens and 2,300 bird specimens. These bones provide scientist valuable record of the animals in the area.
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This is the skull of a whale leaning up against the shed.
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Lion seal skulls on shelves inside the bone shed.
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Whale skeletons outside a small but great museum, the Acatushun Museum of Southern Birds and Mammals. The main exhibit consists of skeletons of cetacean, pinniped, and bird species, displayed on walls adorned with life-size paintings of the animals.
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Just in front of the museum is an old fishing boat.
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An old truck - not driving anymore - supports a little moss and a rusty chain.

The group took a bus back to Ushuaia where I had dinner in town.
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