Wednesday, March 2, 2022 -
This was a long day - and the day with the most pictures taken and deleted. We were overwhelmed by the
beautiful art and craftsmanship of the ancient tombs.
First - Cal was up at 0400 for a taxi boat ride across the Nile then on a van to a Hot Air Balloon ride. Not
very conformable -
32 people to a balloon basket - we were in 4 person boxes of 8 small cells. Cal was lucky to be part of a
3-person cell.
There were several balloons launched over the west side of the Nile.
The Temple of Hatshepsut - we will see the temple on the tour later in the day.
The mountain which contains the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens with royal tombs. You can see on
this
mountain holes - all of these were tombs. The west side of the Nile was used for the dead - so all the structures
on this
side of the Nile are tombs.
The crops from the air - this is sugar cane and some smaller crop with some palms.
Sugar cane from above.
The mountains with the tombs and a small village built on the foothills. Since the discovery of the tombs, the
Egyptian government has moved
the villagers out, so they can dig down and search for ruins.
We fly over Amenhotep III's temple which is an ongoing excavation of a very large temple.
Egyptologists had long assumed that all that remained of the temple complex were the imposing Colossi of Memnon,
two seated statues of
Amenhotep III at the entrance to his temple, and some stones and fragments of statuary.
The ruins of Medinet Habu - Ancient Egyptian temple dedicated to Amun and served as the Mortuary Temple of
Ramesses III.
We would not visit these ruins.
As the sun rose so did the fog/smog along the river valley. You can see the Nile glinting in the background.
To the west the desert was clear.
Flames in our basket as we descended to the desert floor.
We drove a short way to join the rest of the tour at the Colossi of Memnon.
Colossi of Memnon are two massive stone statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III, which stand at the front of the
ruined Mortuary
Temple of Amenhotep III, the largest temple in the Theban Necropolis. They have stood since 1350 BC.
This statue is from a single piece of stone.
The second of the Colossi of Memnon - this one is made of several stones and was badly damaged in an earthquake.
Valley of the Kings was the next stop - this is the mountain at the head of the valley - chosen, it is said, as
it resembles
a pyramid.
The Valley of the Kings is where, for a period of 500 years starting in 1500 BC, rock tombs were cut into the
mountain side.
To date, 63 tombs have been discovered in the valley. The size ranges from a small pit to one with over 120
chambers. Not all the
tombs are open to the public - we went into 3 of them.
First was the Tomb of Ramesses IX. It is a very long tomb with side chambers. It is one of the first tombs in
the Valley of the Kings and was looted long ago.
The use of colors to include yellow, black and dark blues add a visually striking feel and is rare among the
decorations in the Valley's tombs.
This is the burial chamber and is different from the others in the two tiered pit for the sarcophagus.
Various gods lined up - very colorful.
Gods in horizontal ovals - deceased perhaps?
Eye of Horus and the Eye of Ra on a boat with the scarab. Looks like the scarab is holding the sun, so this might
be the
trip representing a day.
The god Khnum - the creator - a human body with the head of a ram.
Walls of hieroglyphics in beautiful colors - amazing to think it is over 3,000 years old!!!
This art was unusual as the pharaoh is diagonal.
Again, the ram headed god Khnum.
Interesting set of characters including several eyes.
Horus - the falcon headed god - representing the sky.
This one is interesting - heaven and hell?
This looks like the Book of the Dead - basically things one should know on their journey to the underworld.
Ramesses' cartouche and some hieroglyphics.
Uraeus is a symbol for the goddess Wadjet - patroness of the river Nile.
More colorful art in the tomb
We then went into the tomb of King Tutankhamun (King Tut) which was discovered in 1922.
Looting is thought to have happened shortly after his death then the tomb resealed. They estimate 60% of the
valuables were stolen. It is very small
compared to the other tombs in the Valley of the Kings.
This is the tomb itself
This is the same wall as the entry so hard to get a good picture. Pictures are the gods Anubis, Isis, and Hathor.
A panorama of the tomb chamber. On the left are the twelve hours of Amduat (monkeys), and on the right, is from
the Book of the Dead with
the center wall depicting Tutankhamen, followed by his Ka, as he is welcomed to the underworld by Osiris.
The mummy of the poor king for all to see.
Here he is on the wall - note the cartouche with the little scarab.
In boat is the scarab - typically the boat and scarab carry the sun across the sky. Not sure who
the others in the boat are.
The pharaoh with his crown indicating the ruler of lower and upper Egypt.
The highest caste of Egyptian priests wore leopard skins as they performed burial duties.
Our last tomb in the Valley of the Kings was for Pharaoh Ramesses III. A very long tomb - which accidentally hit
the
tomb of Amenmesse, so they shifted the hall to the right a bit and kept on digging - 617 feet deep!!!
This is a hallway leading into the tomb. Note the stars on the ceiling along with the hieroglyphics.
The sun over Horus.
The eye of Ra.
More scarabs...
Anubi the dog god - protector of graves. He also attended the weighing of your soul to determine if your deeds
allowed you
to enter the realm of the dead.
Beautiful artwork - lined the hallway.
This section of pillars is just after the right turn to avoid the other tomb. We still have a way to go to get to
the burial chamber.
Interesting snake man. We were told that a snake with some decoration was a "good" snake and one without any
decoration was
a "bad" snake.
Bad snakes - three of them...
Sobek (crocodile head) representing power/fertility/protection from the Nile and Horus (falcon head) - the god of
the sky.
Ramesses III giving offerings to the gods.
More pesky bad snakes.
Anubis this time with the body of a man and head of a dog - a protector of graves.
The tomb of Hatshepsut - who was one of very few women pharaohs. She built quite a tomb.
Hatshepsut came to the throne of Egypt in 1478 BC. As the principal wife of Thutmose II, Hatshepsut initially
ruled as regent to
Thutmose III, a son of Thutmose II by another wife and the first male heir. Thutmose III had inherited the throne
at about two years of age.
She simply continued her rule for the next 21 years.
This is one of several statues with her "likeness" - as the pharaoh was to be male, the works in her tomb
represent her as a man.
In one of the lower rooms open to the elements you can see the blue sky and stars.
Hatshepsut offering gifts to Horus
Hieroglyphics on the walls
Beautiful art in the open air rooms of the temple - probably buried for centuries in the sand.
More art on the walls.
There were many owls on the walls - we did not discover their significance.
One of the statues on an upper level which is in good condition.
It was very hot, and we had to ascend 3 stories while visiting the
temple to get to the burial chamber. The chamber was cut into the mountain side - the whole building was anchored
into the mountain.
4 of the 30+ statues which were once standing on the top tier of the tomb.
Two decades after Hatshepsut's death, under the direction of Thutmose III, references to her rule were erased,
usurped or
obliterated. The campaign was intense but brief, quelled after two years when Amenhotep II was enthroned. During
this
period much of her temples including her tomb were destroyed or defaced.
Our next stop was the Valley of the Queens - similar to the Valley of the Kings where tombs were created into the
mountain side.
In fact the Valley of the Queens is just one ridge line over from the Valley of the Kings - you can still see the
old
path over the ridge line tourists could take in years past - now closed.
There are 110 tombs so far identified.
Our first stop was the Tomb of Nefertari which is one of the largest and most beautiful in the Valley of the
Queens.
Nefertari, which means "beautiful companion", was Ramesses II's favorite wife.
He went out of his way to make this obvious, referring to her as "the one for whom the sun
shines" in his writings.
This is her burial chamber with a vast room and beautiful star-studded ceiling supported
by four pillars entirely covered with decoration. Originally, the queen's red granite sarcophagus lay in the
middle of this chamber.
Nefertari's cartouche
Khepri - the scarab god representing the rising sun and rebirth or renewal of life.
Anubis - looks like a fox but typically called a jackal - the god of death - protecting the way to the afterlife.
Hathor and Horus - falcon headed god with Ra, the sun, on his head.
This is a cute grouping of gods sitting.
Nefertari and the goddess Isis - the goddess of healing and magic.
Virginia Ann and Cal in Nefertari's Tomb. Note the beautiful, vivid colors all around us.
The Nefertari Tomb is not as large as the others in the Valley of the Kings but is still very impressive. Here we
walk down a
set of stairs, adorned with art, to the burial chamber.
The "Queen playing Draughts" a portrayal of Nefertari playing the board game of Senet.
A whole entire wall was dedicated to show the Queen at play, demonstrating the importance of the game of Senet.
Small herd of cows on one wall.
The ram headed god Khnum - who represented the source of the Nile.
Nefertari may have been very clever, and possibly have been a writer in her lifetime. This painting in the tomb
of
Nefertari shows her coming before the god of writing and literacy to proclaim her title as a scribe.
Nefertari in detail. These wall paintings characterize Nefertari's character. Much attention was given to her
face to
emphasize her beauty, especially the shape of her eyes, the blush of her cheeks, and her eyebrows.
Nefertari's cartouche
Anubis - god of the underworld
Isis offering life to Nefertari
A high priest in leopard skin.
The ram headed god Khnum - again. The clarity and detail of the art is amazing.
The gods protecting the dead.
Hieroglyphics of the book of the Dead
Uraeus is a symbol for the goddess Wadjet. She was one of the earliest Egyptian deities and was often depicted as
a
cobra, as she is the serpent goddess.
Nefertari
Unfortunately by the time Nefertari's tomb was rediscovered in 1904, tomb raiders had ransacked the tomb and
stolen
all the treasures buried with the Queen, including her sarcophagus and mummy. Parts of the mummy's knees were
found in the
burial chamber, and were taken to the Egyptian Museum in Turin by Schiaparelli, where they are still kept there
today.
This Anubis seems to be grinning
The goddess of justice - Maat
There were only a few tombs open the next one was the Tomb of Prince Amen Khopshef. Yes - prince - he was only 16
when he died so
instead of burying him in the Valley of the Kings he was buried in the Valley of the Queens.
This is the god Ptah - patron of craftsman and architects.
Anubis, in some colorful hieroglyphics, waiting to guide the prince through the underworld.
Horus
Prince Amen Khopshef father was Ramesses III - and there were quite a few representations of the pharaoh.
Not sure who this is after a long internet search - if you can identify him/her let us know.
Colorful hieroglyphics.
Ramesses III - again.
All the artwork was behind glass which made taking pictures difficult. There are beautiful images.
Not sure who these people are - possibly Ramesses III and queen.
Back on the Nile traveling up stream to the south.
This is a traditional boat for Nile River cruises, the dahabiya. It is a sail boat with two large sails. Like
cruise ships there are
various
classes of boat - one thing we noticed is that none were using their sails - they all had a small tugboat pulling
them up/down the river.
Palm trees everywhere - they crowded the river's shore. The desert mountains are in the background. Next to the
Nile it is green
but only a few yards or miles away the terrain is very dry desert.
A man and his cows on the banks of the Nile.
The end of an extremely long day and 1,000s of pictures. Amazing art in the tombs!!!