Up early to be in line at the Taj Mahal at 0700. Yesterday there were hundreds of Indians in
line to get in and only a few tourists. When we arrived, there were few Indians and many
camera-toting tourists. The Taj Mahal was beautiful in the morning light.
In 1631, Shah Jahan, emperor during the Mughal empire's period of greatest prosperity,
was grief-stricken when his favorite of three wives and beloved companion, Mumtaz Mahal,
a Persian princess, died during the birth of their 14th child. The Taj Mahal was his
memorial to their love.
Taj Mahal across lawn in the rising sun. On the left is the mosque
The Taj Mahal incorporates and expands on design traditions of Persian and earlier
Mughal architecture. Specific inspiration came from successful Timurid and Mughal
buildings, including Itmad-Ud-Daulah's Tomb (Baby Taj) and Shah Jahan's own Jama Masjid
in Delhi. While earlier Mughal
buildings were primarily constructed of red sandstone, Shah Jahan promoted the use of
white marble inlaid with semi-precious stones.
A slight fog came in from the Yamuna River
One of the minarets with the mosque in the background.
The mosque is a red sandstone building.
The mosque's basic design of a long hall surmounted by three domes is
similar to others built by Shah Jahan. The Mughal mosques of this period divide the
sanctuary hall into three
areas comprising a main sanctuary and slightly smaller sanctuaries on either side. At
the Taj Mahal, each sanctuary opens onto an expansive vaulting dome.
The Taj Mahal walls are covered in marble carvings as well as the inlay work.
An example of the inlay work all over the outside of the Taj Mahal.
The Taj Mahal was constructed using materials from all over India and Asia. It is believed
over 1,000 elephants were used to transport building materials. The translucent white
marble was brought from Makrana, Rajasthan, the jasper from Punjab, jade and crystal
from China. The turquoise was from Tibet and the Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan,
while the sapphire came from Sri Lanka and the carnelian from Arabia. In all, twenty-eight
types of precious and semi-precious stones were inlaid into the white marble.
The minarets were designed to call the Islamic faithful to prayer.
In 2010, cracks appeared in parts of the tomb, and the minarets which surround the
monument were showing signs of tilting, as the wooden foundation of the tomb may be
rotting due to lack of water
One of the minarets which are 130 feet high.
Each minaret is effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring
the tower. At the top of the tower is a final balcony surmounted by a dome that mirrors
the design of those on the tomb. The domes all share the same decorative elements of a
lotus design topped by a gilded finial. The minarets were constructed slightly outside
the plinth so that in the event of collapse, a typical occurrence with many tall
constructions of the period, the material from the towers would tend to fall away from
the tomb.
Agra Fort red stone walls loom over Agra.
The Mughals built the present-day structure, though a fort had stood there since at
least the 11th century. Agra Fort was originally a brick fort known as Badalgarh.
The gate into the Agra Fort
The Mughals under Akbar defeated King Hemu finally at the Second Battle of Panipat in 1556.
Realizing the importance of Agra's central situation, Akbar made it his capital and arrived
in 1558. His historian, Abdul Fazal, recorded that this was a brick fort known as
'Badalgarh'. It was in a ruined condition, and Akbar had it rebuilt with red sandstone
from the Barauli area in Rajasthan. Architects laid the foundation, and it was built with bricks
in the inner core with sandstone on external surfaces. Some 4,000 builders worked on it
daily for eight years, completing it in 1573.
Across the parapet of the Agra Fort is a view of Taj Mahal
The part of the Agra Fort which was a place called Khas Mahal.
Khas Mahal was a private palace built by Shah Jahan for his daughters Roshnara and Jahanara.
Construction of the Khas Mahal began in 1631 and was completed in 1640.
From the rooms in the Khas Mahal you can see the Taj Mahal
Detail of the walls in the palace adorned with inlay gold and blue in white marble.
The marble is crafted so thin that the sunlight shines through. Just as amazing is the screen
which is carved out of one piece of marble.
A view of the Khas Mahal from across the garden.
The arches in the ceiling of the Diwan E Aam - or The Hall of Public Audience
where the king heard the public. A beautiful building built in the early 1600s.
Though built of red sandstone, the whole of it has been while shell-plastered,
looking like marble.
he imperial throne chamber in the middle of the eastern walls
is of white marble with inlay ornamentation.
A parrot makes a home in a cannonball hole.
When the Army of the British East India Company first attacked the Agra Fort in
1803 under General Gerard Lake, a cannonball fired by the artillery damaged the palace.
From Agra we were on a short trip to Fatehpur Sikri to see a place on the hill. We slowed
at an intersection where this little village spilled out onto the highway.
Further down the road a small temple on the edge of a lake.
You could create a coffee table book with pictures of the trucks - all decorated as if in
a competition.
We saw several variations of the family on motorcycle - many like this with a family of four
moving down the road. And the women road sidesaddle - hard to keep your balance.
A formal cow - dressed for success. Guessing this outfit is for tourists.
We reached our destination - Fatehpur Sikri. It is a walled city with a fortress/palace/mosque
overlooking the town from a hilltop.
The city was founded in 1569 by the Emperor, Akbar, and served as the capital of the Mughal
Empire from 1571 to 1585.
Seeking to revive the splendors of the Persian court ceremonial
made famous by his ancestor Timur, Akbar planned the complex on Persian principles.
But the influences of his adopted land came through in the typically Indian embellishments.
The easy availability of sandstone in the neighboring areas of Fatehpur Sikri, also
meant that all the buildings here were made of the red stone.
The Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) in Fatehpur Sikri was completed in 1575.
The rectangular mosque comprises a central nave with a single dome,
two colonnaded halls on either side, with two square chambers crowned with domes.
This is one of the halls on the side.
Inside the mosque from one end to the other.
The red sandstone columns at one end of the mosque
Close up of the calligraphy surrounding the entrance to the mosque
After the mosque we explored the palace which had a tiny building for one of Akbar's wives
which had beautiful birds and animals carved into the sandstone. Because the muslims do
not believe in representations of living beings, the heads were removed from the carvings.
Red sandstone columns supporting te rooms of the king
Diwan-i-Khas or Hall of Private Audience, is a plain square building with four domes
on the roof. However, it is famous for its central pillar, which has a square base and
an octagonal shaft, both carved with bands of geometric and floral designs, further its
thirty-six serpentine brackets support a circular platform for Akbar, which is connected
to each corner of the building on the first floor, by four stone walkways. It is here that
Akbar had representatives of different religions discuss their faiths and gave private
audience.
Detail of the central support in the Diwan-i-Khas where Akbar stood.
Again we were impressed by the stone-carved screens used in the buildings. This is not wood
but sandstone.
Many animals in the median - cows, dogs, and goats. The cows are seen frequently in the
rural cities. The dogs head to the median to escape the insects.
From Fatehpur Sikri a short drive to the train station for a several-hour train ride to
Ranthambore National Park where I hoped to see a tiger in the wild.